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Chilled Ibiza: Experience the Ultimate Sunset Mix

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Meanwhile, it’s drawn in more bohemian creatives such as Patricia Marañón, a floral designer working with organic and wild blooms, and her friend Laura de Grinyo, a ceramicist inspired by the forms of classic ibicenco pottery. Back in the day, the sleepy hamlet of San Lorenzo had a single bar, the Casanova, where country folk went to smoke cheroots and play cards. The passion projects of Rebecca Frayn, who is bringing a spectacular finca in San Vicente back to productive life, and Sophie Daunais and Christian Jochnick, with their ambitious farm-to-table venture Juntos in San Mateo, are remarkable enough to warrant a story of their own.

It reminded me that even as one generation moans about how much more magical and idyllic Ibiza was in their day, successive generations are already finding new sources of magic and idyll. She also knows about the loveliest new hotels, especially those low-key ones that open their doors quietly.Parts of my mental geography were virtually unrecognisable: Santa Gertrudis, in my day a one-horse hamlet with a couple of bars and a tobacconist, was now a fully grown town of done-up villas with a world-class cocktail bar, Overall, and Bottega il Buco, an outpost of New York restaurateur Donna Lennard’s Il Buco, also found in NoHo and the Hamptons. And that was where I headed next, drawn by the single-track roads winding among almond fields and the secret calas (creeks) of the coast. The great dome of Privilege up on the heights of San Rafael looked forlorn and unkempt, the encroaching vegetation making it appear like a Mayan ruin in the early stages of being reclaimed by the jungle. I wandered around in a mild aesthetic trance, registering the twisted wooden gates between stone walls, the aroma of jasmine, the flame-thrower blasts of bougainvillaea against the white façade turned ultraviolet by the midday sun.

The funky chairs beside the pool are not from a big-name Scandinavian brand but handmade by artisans in Papua New Guinea.

There was an atmosphere of elegant unflashiness, chastened chic, that seemed somehow attuned with the mood of the times. Here, on a site that would have been visible from where I pitched my tent, is where the island’s most talked-about new place to stay has made landfall. Finance is provided by PayPal Credit (a trading name of PayPal UK Ltd, Whittaker House, Whittaker Avenue, Richmond-Upon-Thames, Surrey, United Kingdom, TW9 1EH). One of the first wave of agriturismos in Ibiza, Can Domo was recently taken over by the three Spanish partners behind Can Tres on Formentera.

My stomping ground was always the rural north: the hills and villages around Santa Inés, San Juan and Cala San Vicente. Further round the west coast, I stopped for a dip at the pretty cove of Cala Moli, just down the road from the splashy private community Sabina Estates. Finally, the island gets the avant-garde coctelería it’s been wanting for years, set in the foodie hub of Santa Gertrudis. On the walk down through the forest, balsamic scents of heat-baked pine and rosemary flung open the synapses of my memory. Along the road, sun-faded nightclub billboards advertising the closing parties of October 2019 seemed like messages from another world.As I traversed the island, I found plenty to confound my expectations as well as stir up long-dormant memories. I stood on my balcony and took in the sight below: a beauteous pool, bright young things lounging in swimwear, the gentle thud of house music. Moving from its party-hard peak, Ibiza has gone through an introspective shift, with a desire to slow life down so it can hit its rhythm again.

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