Posted 20 hours ago

5X 300mm/12" Long Red PVC Wall Rawl Plugs - Cut to Length Cables

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p.s. if you’re worried out the sharp edges of the cut out area, it’s easy to shield them by making a ‘grommet’ out of some thin plastic tubing cut on one side. I have access to lots of ‘hospital drip’ tubing (wifes a nurse you see) which is about 3 or 4mm tube, perfect when cut down one side with some tiny scissors (also ‘single use’ from the hospital lol!). I think with it being ‘only’ 500mm high, I’d be tempted to get long outdoor screws, preferably with a hex head and then use regular wall plugs as deep as I could get into the masonry. Drill holes very slowly and carefully (SDS etc)and blow out the dust (seems worse on vertical holes as the bit doesn’t clear as well as horizontal holes). Don’t worry too much about hitting mortar, obviously if it’s three out of four holes maybe! As long as it’s only the odd one, it should still hold well. Any really bad holes you could resin fill maybe and push the screw into it (seen this done with outdoor ‘no-nails’ type stuff in a pinch, he left the screw a couple of turns proud and nipped it up after 24hrs… big dodgy but what can you do sometimes!). Hope that gives you an alternative and I really must write up this tip into an article (so thanks for that push!)

Let me know what you’re fixing up and clarify the shank diameter of the screw and I’ll be much more specific, I promise! Yes, the leverage could be considerable. Especially if someone falls or pulls on it etc. I’m assuming it’s outside so whatever you choose obviously needs to be suitable for prolonged outdoor use. In fact, if any screw starts to get very tight, it’s best to stop and have a rethink before you break the screw or burst the material. Screws should be tight, but not crazy, “sweating to get them in” tight! Simply hit reverse and take it out. How deep does a wall plug need to be? I talked about this a lot on another post, here’s the link: How to Properly Use Wall PlugsResin is obviously a great way forward as it holds well without creating stress, but it’s much more work and the nuts don’t look as neat as a screw or bolt head.

By coincidence, the size of an imperial screw head also roughly equates to the gauge. For example an 8-gauge screw has an 8mm wide head…..handy huh? Any mirror that needs more than this should be hung on a pair of hooks in my opinion (gives better leveling too). See what they have at the store screw/length wise, stainless steel is best of course. You could even consider structural timber screws, if you can get a wall plug big enough for them. They are long, have flanged heads and designed for outdoor use, just a thought (Have a look at what I mean at screwfix…). Can I first ask what you are fastening to the wall? It’s just that plastic wall plugs of the size you’d need for a screw that size are not in common use. Sure you can buy ‘sets’ of big screws that come with a large plastic plug (sink/washbasin screws to name one) but usually if you’re hanging something heavy on a masonry wall you’d use a ‘rawlbolt’ style expanding bolt; either a hex head and washer or a nut and washer.

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Don’t forget that the weight is mostly in ‘shear’ too; i.e. it’s trying to pull down on the fixing and not too much force is trying to pull the thing out of the wall! Difficult without knowing the weight of the mirror, but I’d have through that an 80mm slotted, square hook would be fine with a regular brown 7mm plug, making sure that you push the plug into the masonry itself and through the plasterworks. I definitely agree with you re the larger screws, I’ve got nothing over a 10g x 100mm in my box for sure. Bolts or frame fixings for me at and above that. I don’t have too much problem getting the bigger gauges in, as I use a pretty powerful drill driver, but yes, you can’t stop and they need lots of ‘feed’ or you’ll get into trouble. You’d struggle getting them in by hand I do agree.

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